VENICE ITALY VACATION
By Karen Robbins
Our last look at the Alps was obscured by fog and rain as we drove from
Salzburg into Italy but we knew we were in Italy when the road signs
became more difficult to read.
We arrived safely in Venice and checked into the Best Western Hotel
Bologna. The hotel was directly across the street from the train station
where we boarded a train for the 10 minute ride to historic Venice. That
sounded easy. It wasn't. This was Italy. At the train station there was no
easy way to find which platform was loading to go to "Venezia" and no
one easily accessible to ask. After standing in a long line for the
information room which opened to only one person at a time, we finally
got some insight into where we needed to go and managed to get on the
right train.
VENICE VAPORETTOS
Disembarking, we found the Vaporettos (water taxis) in front of the
station. We opted to take #1 to St. Mark's Square, knowing it made more
stops along the way but we would have more time to look around.
Somehow we got on # 82 instead and went the opposite direction we
wanted to go but we still ended up at St. Mark's. We arrived at the square
amidst gray skies and drizzle. I looked around at the old buildings, dirty
and crusty, and wondered how anyone could think this was such a
beautiful place.
We wandered down crowded side streets looking for a place to eat. The
dreariness of the weather contributed to the feeling of oppressive
passageways filled with people jostling each other to keep out of the rain.
I immediately began wondering if I was going to enjoy this place at all.
A few gondoliers called out to us to take a ride through the small canals
running between the buildings. They weren't getting much response from
the weather beaten crowd. Finding a restaurant in a small courtyard, we
gratefully ducked under the overhang to find a seat. Our dinner was
unremarkable (and expensive) but it was fun to sit and watch the crowds
go by. The rain stopped just before we were ready to venture out again
and make our way back to the square.
ST. MARKS SQUARE
St. Mark's Square is a huge area bordered by St. Mark's basilica and the
old and new Procuraties. The old were built originally for the St. Mark's
attorneys. The Doge Palace sits next to St. Mark's Basilica and the
famous Bell Tower rises above it all. At street level, Procuraties are filled
with cafes, restaurants, and shops. There are four or five cafes with huge
areas of little tables set up in the square where you can sit and listen to
live music being played. As we pondered what to do, the sun broke
through the clouds and the front of the basilica was illuminated. The
golden tiles glittered in the late evening sun and the building began to
look fresh and clean as the water evaporated from the facade. Ah, so this
is why people come here, I thought, as the sky above became blue and a
slight breeze freshened the air.
STICKER SHOCK IN VENICE
We decided on a cappuccino at a table near the string ensemble that
was playing beautiful music. So enchanted were we that we never
stopped to look at the prices on the menu. We sipped our delicious
brews, enjoyed the view and the atmosphere. Then the bill came. When
we converted euros to dollars it worked out to be $15 a cup. We didn't
notice the cover charge on the menu. We probably could have ordered
something to go along with the cappuccinos and gotten a better value.
But then, this was Venice, the heart of the historical area and we had just
watched the sunset and been entertained by wonderful musicians. We
swallowed our shock, laughed a little, and took a picture of the bill for
posterity.
Finding the train platform again to head back to our hotel was frustrating
but we managed to find a couple of women who understood English and
helped us out. It had been a lovely evening and now I was looking
forward to the next day.
GRAND CANAL
In the morning, we arrived by vaporetto again, this time taking the one that
went down the Grand Canal. We managed to get seats in front and enjoy
the spectacular view of the old buildings sitting right in the water. Small
docks or steps with platforms lead right to the front doors of some of the
hotels along the canal. It would have been fun to spend a night in one of
them. Gardens and window boxes and balconies full of flowers caught
our attention as we slowly made our way to St. Mark's Square.
THE BELL TOWER
It was 9 a.m. when we reached the square and there were few tourists
around. The bell tower was first on our list and just opened for the day.
We paid our 6 euros each and took the elevator to the top. The view of the
square was wonderful. Looking beyond that, all you could see were
rooftops. The canals are obscured by all the buildings. Cruise ships in
the harbor dwarfed the buildings and looked out of place from that
vantage point.
ST MARK'S BASILICA
We walked directly out of the bell tower and got in the line for the basilica.
It was already stretching across the square. I had carried our backpack
that day and as we approached the entrance, I knew I was in trouble.
Security was sending people with backpacks to an area around the
corner to check them. If he knew English, he didn't use it. I headed in the
direction of where he pointed while the others went on ahead. There was
no place I could see that looked like a bag check. I went back to the
entrance and found another American who was following an Italian girl to
find the place. I followed them. It was not only around the corner but also
down a side street and not marked well at all. (There must not be many
sign makers in Italy.) I checked the pack and received a large tag that got
me to the front of the line and into the basilica in time to see the other
three on their way out. They waited while I walked with the crowd up one
aisle, across the front and down the other aisle.
It is an impressive church but I didn't think it was as beautiful as some of
the others we had seen in Germany and Austria. There are numerous
scenes depicted with mosaics shimmering in golden highlights in the
large domes looming overhead. The floor is a geometric pattern of tiles.
There are no photographs allowed and you must remain quiet inside.
Also, throughout Italy, there is a dress code for visitors to churches. You
cannot wear shorts, sleeveless blouses, or short skirts above the knee.
They will and did turn people away.
THE FAMOUS PIGEONS OF VENICE
After retrieving our backpack, we returned to the square to see all the
pigeons. It rivals Trafalgar Square in London. For a euro you could buy a
small bag of corn and instantly make friends with hundreds of pigeons.
Actually they are very gentle and there was only one "accident" which was
quickly cleaned up.
MURANO
We went back to the vaporetto docks and found the line ( #42/43) that
would take us to Murano and Burano. It took about an hour to reach
Murano but it was a pleasant ride. We disembarked at the first stop and
found ourselves immediately greeted by salesmen from the glass
factories. They welcomed us into a demonstration room where we
watched with fascination as a red vase was formed at the end of the
blowpipe and speckles of color were added. Next a horse came to life
from a blob of molten red glass. There were beautiful pieces of colorful
glass in all sorts of shapes and sizes on the shelves in the showroom.
Prices ranged from 6 euros to thousands of dollars for chandeliers.
Glass factories are all over the island. This is the place where the glass
manufacturers were sent when the citizens of Venice worried that they
might accidentally burn the city to the ground. Lots of shops and little
cafes line the canals that criss-cross the island. We enjoyed a delightful
pizza lunch along one of the canals.
BURANO LACE
Our next stop was Burano. We found the correct place to catch the
vaporetta from Murano. It doesn't run as frequently so we had to be
careful of our time. Burano was an even smaller place than Murano. It is
known for it's handmade lace. As you exit the vaporetto and walk into the
little town, there are a few places along the way were women sit in the
lace shops and demonstrate the lace making. Their hands whip through
knots and stitches as the delicate pattern begins to take shape. Not
everything in the shops is made there. You need to be sure to ask for the
Burano patterned lace. They sell small pieces for about 15 euros.
BEWARE OF PRICES IN VENICE
We caught a vaporetto back to Venice, managing to arrive in time to have
a nice dinner before our scheduled gondola ride. Near the Rialto bridge
was a pretty area full of tables topped with white linen and decorated with
small colorful lights. It sat right on the canal. After our $15 coffees, we
knew it would probably be expensive but we would only be in Venice
once. The waiter spoke English mixed with a heavy Italian accent that
was fairly understandable. He was also a great salesman. He described
the specials. One was a seafood dish with pasta and three sauces. We
assumed that he meant there were three sauces to put on the pasta
along with little pieces of seafood. Well, no matter. We knew we were in
trouble when he placed a huge tiered bowl of ice with various pieces of
seafood, including two half lobsters, crabs and oysters. The sauces were
for the seafood. I don't even remember the pasta. The whole thing was
somewhere around $200 by the time we added drinks. It was delicious.
The view was great. And next time we'll ask the price even though it's a
"speciale".
VENICE GONDOLAS
When we arrived at the gondola stop there were about 60 people waiting
with us--no gondolas in sight. Just as we were wondering what was
going on, a dozen gondolas pulled in between the striped poles to let
their passengers off. We boarded our gondola being careful not to move
too much. It's almost like getting into a canoe. With amazing skill, the
gondoliers used their long tongued poles to manipulate the vessels out
of their dock and into the canal. It was an armada of gondolas that slowly
made its way down the Grand Canal. In the evening, the canal is not as
busy so we did not bob around like those who rode earlier. In the center
of the armada, was a gondola with a tenor and an accordion player who
serenaded us as we floated between buildings illuminated with the
colors of the evening sun. As we entered a narrow canal to navigate the
maze of small waterways that lace the island, the sound of Ole Sole Mio
resonated from the exteriors of the buildings. Romantic? Yes and no.
After all we were with our family and 11 other gondolas filled with people.
But the setting could not be matched in the best of romance novels. The
price of the gondolas was not cheap at $50, but worth it.
Oh yes, I can't leave Venice until I tell you about the pay toilets—a must for
any self-respecting woman. They only cost about .50 euro and they were
very clean and well worth the wait. Our guys said the non-pay toilets were
indescribable.
GETTING TO VENICE
You can’t get to Venice by car. You can drive as far as Trochetto and park
and catch a vaporetto, but the lots fill quickly. Most tour books suggest
going to Mestre and taking the train. Our hotel (Best Western Hotel
Bologna) was directly across the street from the train station where we
boarded a train for the 10-minute ride to historic Venice. It was a bit
confusing. The schedules are difficult to understand. Be sure to get good
instructions from your hotel.
By Karen Robbins
Our last look at the Alps was obscured by fog and rain as we drove from
Salzburg into Italy but we knew we were in Italy when the road signs
became more difficult to read.
We arrived safely in Venice and checked into the Best Western Hotel
Bologna. The hotel was directly across the street from the train station
where we boarded a train for the 10 minute ride to historic Venice. That
sounded easy. It wasn't. This was Italy. At the train station there was no
easy way to find which platform was loading to go to "Venezia" and no
one easily accessible to ask. After standing in a long line for the
information room which opened to only one person at a time, we finally
got some insight into where we needed to go and managed to get on the
right train.
VENICE VAPORETTOS
Disembarking, we found the Vaporettos (water taxis) in front of the
station. We opted to take #1 to St. Mark's Square, knowing it made more
stops along the way but we would have more time to look around.
Somehow we got on # 82 instead and went the opposite direction we
wanted to go but we still ended up at St. Mark's. We arrived at the square
amidst gray skies and drizzle. I looked around at the old buildings, dirty
and crusty, and wondered how anyone could think this was such a
beautiful place.
We wandered down crowded side streets looking for a place to eat. The
dreariness of the weather contributed to the feeling of oppressive
passageways filled with people jostling each other to keep out of the rain.
I immediately began wondering if I was going to enjoy this place at all.
A few gondoliers called out to us to take a ride through the small canals
running between the buildings. They weren't getting much response from
the weather beaten crowd. Finding a restaurant in a small courtyard, we
gratefully ducked under the overhang to find a seat. Our dinner was
unremarkable (and expensive) but it was fun to sit and watch the crowds
go by. The rain stopped just before we were ready to venture out again
and make our way back to the square.
ST. MARKS SQUARE
St. Mark's Square is a huge area bordered by St. Mark's basilica and the
old and new Procuraties. The old were built originally for the St. Mark's
attorneys. The Doge Palace sits next to St. Mark's Basilica and the
famous Bell Tower rises above it all. At street level, Procuraties are filled
with cafes, restaurants, and shops. There are four or five cafes with huge
areas of little tables set up in the square where you can sit and listen to
live music being played. As we pondered what to do, the sun broke
through the clouds and the front of the basilica was illuminated. The
golden tiles glittered in the late evening sun and the building began to
look fresh and clean as the water evaporated from the facade. Ah, so this
is why people come here, I thought, as the sky above became blue and a
slight breeze freshened the air.
STICKER SHOCK IN VENICE
We decided on a cappuccino at a table near the string ensemble that
was playing beautiful music. So enchanted were we that we never
stopped to look at the prices on the menu. We sipped our delicious
brews, enjoyed the view and the atmosphere. Then the bill came. When
we converted euros to dollars it worked out to be $15 a cup. We didn't
notice the cover charge on the menu. We probably could have ordered
something to go along with the cappuccinos and gotten a better value.
But then, this was Venice, the heart of the historical area and we had just
watched the sunset and been entertained by wonderful musicians. We
swallowed our shock, laughed a little, and took a picture of the bill for
posterity.
Finding the train platform again to head back to our hotel was frustrating
but we managed to find a couple of women who understood English and
helped us out. It had been a lovely evening and now I was looking
forward to the next day.
GRAND CANAL
In the morning, we arrived by vaporetto again, this time taking the one that
went down the Grand Canal. We managed to get seats in front and enjoy
the spectacular view of the old buildings sitting right in the water. Small
docks or steps with platforms lead right to the front doors of some of the
hotels along the canal. It would have been fun to spend a night in one of
them. Gardens and window boxes and balconies full of flowers caught
our attention as we slowly made our way to St. Mark's Square.
THE BELL TOWER
It was 9 a.m. when we reached the square and there were few tourists
around. The bell tower was first on our list and just opened for the day.
We paid our 6 euros each and took the elevator to the top. The view of the
square was wonderful. Looking beyond that, all you could see were
rooftops. The canals are obscured by all the buildings. Cruise ships in
the harbor dwarfed the buildings and looked out of place from that
vantage point.
ST MARK'S BASILICA
We walked directly out of the bell tower and got in the line for the basilica.
It was already stretching across the square. I had carried our backpack
that day and as we approached the entrance, I knew I was in trouble.
Security was sending people with backpacks to an area around the
corner to check them. If he knew English, he didn't use it. I headed in the
direction of where he pointed while the others went on ahead. There was
no place I could see that looked like a bag check. I went back to the
entrance and found another American who was following an Italian girl to
find the place. I followed them. It was not only around the corner but also
down a side street and not marked well at all. (There must not be many
sign makers in Italy.) I checked the pack and received a large tag that got
me to the front of the line and into the basilica in time to see the other
three on their way out. They waited while I walked with the crowd up one
aisle, across the front and down the other aisle.
It is an impressive church but I didn't think it was as beautiful as some of
the others we had seen in Germany and Austria. There are numerous
scenes depicted with mosaics shimmering in golden highlights in the
large domes looming overhead. The floor is a geometric pattern of tiles.
There are no photographs allowed and you must remain quiet inside.
Also, throughout Italy, there is a dress code for visitors to churches. You
cannot wear shorts, sleeveless blouses, or short skirts above the knee.
They will and did turn people away.
THE FAMOUS PIGEONS OF VENICE
After retrieving our backpack, we returned to the square to see all the
pigeons. It rivals Trafalgar Square in London. For a euro you could buy a
small bag of corn and instantly make friends with hundreds of pigeons.
Actually they are very gentle and there was only one "accident" which was
quickly cleaned up.
MURANO
We went back to the vaporetto docks and found the line ( #42/43) that
would take us to Murano and Burano. It took about an hour to reach
Murano but it was a pleasant ride. We disembarked at the first stop and
found ourselves immediately greeted by salesmen from the glass
factories. They welcomed us into a demonstration room where we
watched with fascination as a red vase was formed at the end of the
blowpipe and speckles of color were added. Next a horse came to life
from a blob of molten red glass. There were beautiful pieces of colorful
glass in all sorts of shapes and sizes on the shelves in the showroom.
Prices ranged from 6 euros to thousands of dollars for chandeliers.
Glass factories are all over the island. This is the place where the glass
manufacturers were sent when the citizens of Venice worried that they
might accidentally burn the city to the ground. Lots of shops and little
cafes line the canals that criss-cross the island. We enjoyed a delightful
pizza lunch along one of the canals.
BURANO LACE
Our next stop was Burano. We found the correct place to catch the
vaporetta from Murano. It doesn't run as frequently so we had to be
careful of our time. Burano was an even smaller place than Murano. It is
known for it's handmade lace. As you exit the vaporetto and walk into the
little town, there are a few places along the way were women sit in the
lace shops and demonstrate the lace making. Their hands whip through
knots and stitches as the delicate pattern begins to take shape. Not
everything in the shops is made there. You need to be sure to ask for the
Burano patterned lace. They sell small pieces for about 15 euros.
BEWARE OF PRICES IN VENICE
We caught a vaporetto back to Venice, managing to arrive in time to have
a nice dinner before our scheduled gondola ride. Near the Rialto bridge
was a pretty area full of tables topped with white linen and decorated with
small colorful lights. It sat right on the canal. After our $15 coffees, we
knew it would probably be expensive but we would only be in Venice
once. The waiter spoke English mixed with a heavy Italian accent that
was fairly understandable. He was also a great salesman. He described
the specials. One was a seafood dish with pasta and three sauces. We
assumed that he meant there were three sauces to put on the pasta
along with little pieces of seafood. Well, no matter. We knew we were in
trouble when he placed a huge tiered bowl of ice with various pieces of
seafood, including two half lobsters, crabs and oysters. The sauces were
for the seafood. I don't even remember the pasta. The whole thing was
somewhere around $200 by the time we added drinks. It was delicious.
The view was great. And next time we'll ask the price even though it's a
"speciale".
VENICE GONDOLAS
When we arrived at the gondola stop there were about 60 people waiting
with us--no gondolas in sight. Just as we were wondering what was
going on, a dozen gondolas pulled in between the striped poles to let
their passengers off. We boarded our gondola being careful not to move
too much. It's almost like getting into a canoe. With amazing skill, the
gondoliers used their long tongued poles to manipulate the vessels out
of their dock and into the canal. It was an armada of gondolas that slowly
made its way down the Grand Canal. In the evening, the canal is not as
busy so we did not bob around like those who rode earlier. In the center
of the armada, was a gondola with a tenor and an accordion player who
serenaded us as we floated between buildings illuminated with the
colors of the evening sun. As we entered a narrow canal to navigate the
maze of small waterways that lace the island, the sound of Ole Sole Mio
resonated from the exteriors of the buildings. Romantic? Yes and no.
After all we were with our family and 11 other gondolas filled with people.
But the setting could not be matched in the best of romance novels. The
price of the gondolas was not cheap at $50, but worth it.
Oh yes, I can't leave Venice until I tell you about the pay toilets—a must for
any self-respecting woman. They only cost about .50 euro and they were
very clean and well worth the wait. Our guys said the non-pay toilets were
indescribable.
GETTING TO VENICE
You can’t get to Venice by car. You can drive as far as Trochetto and park
and catch a vaporetto, but the lots fill quickly. Most tour books suggest
going to Mestre and taking the train. Our hotel (Best Western Hotel
Bologna) was directly across the street from the train station where we
boarded a train for the 10-minute ride to historic Venice. It was a bit
confusing. The schedules are difficult to understand. Be sure to get good
instructions from your hotel.
FAMILY TRAVEL FUN.COM
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