Lost in Lagos, Portugal
by: Rick Chapo
Lagos is a small town in Portugal built on a large hill
overlooking the Mediterranean Ocean. While its old
world charm is evident during the day, it can be a real
pain at night.
Upon arriving by train in Lagos, I quickly booked a bed
in a private home with a local family. I was loaded in a
car and driven to the home that was just over the crest
of the hill on which Lagos is built. From the home, it
was about a mile down to the beaches and water. Ah,
good old exercise.
Being from San Diego, I immediately put on my trunks,
flip flops and headed for a swim. As I came over the
top of the hill, I looked around to get my bearing and
admire the view of the sleepy town of Lagos. It
reminded me of home and I stomped on down to the
water with a smile on my face.
While swimming and catching a tan [okay, sunburn], I
met some fellow travelers from London. From the
beach, they took me to see cultural sites such as
museums and so on. Okay, we went to a couple of
bars. As evening turned into night, I endeavored to turn
in early as I was burnt out from the long train ride from
Lisbon. We agreed to meet the next day and I
congratulated myself on my restraint as I walked out of
the drinking establishment.
As I walked along, it dawned on me that I didn’t know
the name of the street I lived on. No reason for alarm. I
was at the bottom of the hill and a mile or so up on the
top was my room. Figuring I would see something
familiar, I started huffing it up the hill.
Many of us non-Europeans go to Europe for the historic
effect. Tiny winding streets with cobblestones are a
personal favorite, but not when you’re wearing flip flops
and there is practically no lighting. I fell on my butt at
least twice on dew covered cobblestones. As I neared
the top of the hill, I managed to crack my right foot on
one of those owe so cute half curbs that seem to
appear throughout Europe.
Making matters worse, I was lost. I stopped to get my
bearings and tried to avoid thinking about the sticky,
wet feeling on my right flip flop. It was useless. There
wasn’t enough light to make out much and what I could
see was completely unfamiliar. There were people
walking around, but I couldn’t ask them for help since I
had been to stupid to write down the address of my
host.
Being a typical male, I took the only logical option
available to me. I walked up and down streets for
roughly two hours, got chased by two dogs, cracked my
right foot AGAIN on curb and generally developed a
bad mood.
Just as I was contemplating sleeping in the bushes, I
rounded the corner and there it was. The most beautiful
little white house with a $6 room in Lagos. Delusional
and tired, I staggered up to the door. It was locked. I
gathered my wits and knocked. The lady of the house
opened the door, looked me up and down and started
giggling.
Like a wayward son, she took me into the kitchen and
made some tea. I had scrapes on my knees and the
toenail on the big toes of my right foot was an
international disaster zone. She and her husband kept
asking me if I had been in a fight!
Lagos is a great town if you’re looking for a little beach
time. Just make absolutely sure you write down the
address of where you are staying.
Lagos, Portugal – Casa Rosa and Joe’s Garage
If you’re a budget traveler or backpacking Europe,
Lagos is a cheap slice of paradise. Casa Rosa is the
place for general sustenance, while Joe’s Garage is a
place to let go.
Casa Rosa
Casa Rosa claims to be the haven for backpackers in
Lagos. The more you travel, the more you know such
claims are rarely true. With Casa Rosa, however, I can
confirm the claim is true. This hole in the wall served
heaping mounds of the food of the day for really cheap
prices. It was packed with backpackers, which made it
a good place to meet people and exchange war stories.
I haven’t been to Portugal for four years, so I have to
attach a caveat to recommending Casa Rosa. When I
first visited Casa Rosa in the 1990’s, it was owned by
a couple of Brits, who were apparently trying to sell it. I
dropped in twice in subsequent years and they were
still there and still trying to sell it. Whether this ever
occurred, I can’t really say so keep in mind there may
be a new owner or the place may not exist at all.
Joe’s Garage
In every town or city, there is one “underground” night
spot you just have to visit. Of course, you first have to
find out about it and then figure out where it is. People
“in the know” typically heavily guard this information.
For years, Joe’s Garage has been such a place in
Lagos.
The recommend attire for Joe’s Garage is a bathing
suit, t-shirt and flip flops. The place appears to have no
ventilation whatsoever and is insanely hot. Turning a
negative into a positive, the owners have a strong
water policy. Water shoots out of the ceiling, mouths of
statutes on the wall and water guns expertly aimed by
bartenders. If you were glasses, just leave them at
home.
Joe’s is open from around ten in the evening until the
hour you stagger out. It is located on Rua Primiero de
Mayo, but don’t bother writing that down. The place has
so little signage that you could be standing in front and
completely miss it. The best way to find it is to follow
the late night crowd as they begin filing out of the bars
around midnight.
Lagos is an ideal spot for budget travelers. The town is
has beaches, nightlife and is cheap. Enjoy!
About The Author
Rick Chapo is with http://www.nomadjournals.com - makers of travel journals.
Writing journals are the perfect travel accessories. Visit http://www.
nomadjournaltrips.com to read more travel articles and travelogues.
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