Kenya- Still at the Heart of the African Safari Experience
By Andrew Muigai
The popular image of safari, especially in the west, is inseparable
from Kenya. Earlier in the last century, gifted
writers such as Ernest Hemingway and Karen Blixen brought to
life the vivid images and uplifting life experience that
constitutes a Kenyan safari. It is at this time that leading
celebrities of the day such as Teddy Roosevelt and Prince Edward
traveled to Kenya on safari. And so the safari gained a certain
snob appeal. The famous went because it was expected of them.
And those on the make because the safari was part of the
certification they needed on the way up. If you want to take a
peek into the mood and character of the players at that time,
read Hemingway's intriguing short story "The Short Happy Life of
Francis Macomber".
In our day however, a Kenya safari is accessible to many
more people. Despite competition from other destinations, Kenya
remains the heart of the African safari experience. The
magnificence and diversity of the wildlife and landscape is
unsurpassed. You are guaranteed to tick off the full roster of
the big five -lion, buffalo, leopard, rhino and elephant. Other
less well-known but essential and chartered members of the
savannah ecosystem are also abundant. The landscape kaleidoscope
rolls out the magnificent rift valley, the central highlands,
the savannah grasslands, snow capped Mount Kenya and the
desolate moonscape of the north. This is perhaps why the experts
advise all those faithful lovers of wildlife and nature that at
least once in their lifetime they must partake of a Kenyan
safari.
Kenya has over 50 national parks and game reserves where
wildlife is protected. But as you already suspect, on the
average safari you cannot hope to cover all of them. It is
therefore a good thing that you get very good value by visiting
only a few of them. This is unless of course you have a lot of
time and can afford to take off the beaten track. The most
popular and from which those with limited time and budget need
to pick from are- Maasai Mara, Amboseli, Lake Nakuru, Aberdares,
Samburu and Tsavo. Top in the off-the-beaten track category for
either wildlife or back to nature activities are- Kakamega
Forest, Marsabit, Meru, Mount Kenya, Mount Elgon and Shimba
Hills.
Maasai Mara is the big one. This is where you must go even when
all the time you can spare is two nights. This is mostly where
all those wildlife videos on Kenya are filmed. The Mara, as the
Maasai Mara Game Reserve is commonly known, is part of the
ecosystem that includes the equally famous Serengeti of
Tanzania. Covering 320 square kilometers, it is nested in the
southwestern corner of the country. The Mara offers wildlife in
such variety and abundance that it is difficult to believe. On a
two-night visit, I saw lions, rhinos, hippos, crocodiles,
giraffe, wildebeests, zebras, buffalo, warthogs, hyenas,
jackals, wild dogs, buffalo, leopard, nine kinds of antelopes
and elephant. The birds are also in plenty -secretary birds,
cranes, stork, vultures and ostriches.
It is in the Mara that perhaps the most spectacular event of the
natural world takes place. I refer to the annual migration of
millions of wildebeest and zebra from the Serengeti in search of
water and pasture. The timing of the phenomena is conditional on
the rains and occurs between June and August. The reverse
journey is usually taken in October. With or without the
migration the Mara has abundant numbers of resident animals and
you are sure to have a good wildlife viewing experience whatever
time of the year you visit. If you have sufficient funds,
consider taking a balloon trip over the reserve. This popular
and thoroughly memorable ride usually commences before dawn and
includes a champagne breakfast. The Mara is 5 hours from Nairobi
by road and 45 minutes by light aircraft.
Amboseli National Park sits on the lower slopes of mighty
Kilimanjaro whose peak is across the border in Tanzania. It is
quite an experience to see the Kilimanjaro hovering above the
clouds in an early morning. As the keen photography enthusiast
can already imagine, the mountain gives a dramatic backdrop for
animal pictures. Amboseli is renowned for its huge elephant
herds. You will also see buffalo, black rhino, zebra, wildebeest
and other plain animals. Lions and other cats can be seen but
are less plentiful here than in the Mara. The park is 3 hours
from Nairobi by road and can be approached through Namanga, the
border post between Kenya and Tanzania.
Lake Nakuru's claim to fame is anchored on its flamingo's and
the over 400 species of birds found here. The lake itself is a
soda lake on the floor of the rift valley. The sight of the at
times millions of flamingos is quite spectacular. From a
distance the lake appears ringed in pink. Lake Nakuru is also
host to a sanctuary for the endangered black and white rhino.
Lions, Rothschild's giraffe, buffalo and baboons are all
residents here. The park is the most accessible of Kenya's
bigger parks and is only two hours from Nairobi by road.
At the same distance from Nairobi as Lake Nakuru is the
Aberdares National Park. The park has a diverse topography that
includes waterfalls, rain forests and the rivers that supply
water to Nairobi's millions. The flora and fauna is quite unique
and is not found elsewhere in the country, expect on Mount
Kenya. Leopard, elephant, rhino and the rare bongo can all be
found here. But dense vegetation and inclement weather makes it
difficult to spot animals. You are however guaranteed to see
some animals especially elephants and buffalos at the floodlit
waterholes of the two famous tree hotels, The Ark and Treetops.
Students of the history of the British royal family will recall
that it was at the Treetops in 1952, where the then Princess
Elizabeth was staying on honeymoon when her father, King George
VI, died. She descended from Treetops to assume the backbreaking
role of presiding over the far-flung dominions and colonies of
the empire. If you stay at the Treetops you are bound to meet
with some of her fans.
Though not as famous as the Mara, Samburu National Park is
another wildlife haven. Here you will spot lions, elephants,
cheetahs and the elusive leopard. Some animals are unique to
this northern park: Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, kudu and
gerenuk. You will find the semiarid landscape quite dramatic. On
your trip to Samburu, you may also want to take in the nearby
Shaba and Buffalo Springs game reserves. In addition, this is
the place to take a camel safari. Samburu is three hours from
Nairobi by road.
Tsavo is so huge, all of 20,000 sq km, that it is administered
as two units: Tsavo West and Tsavo East. This is the park that
is closest to Mombasa at the coast. The park is three and a half
hours away from Nairobi by road. You will find large herds of
elephant, especially in Tsavo East. Tsavo West is filled with
crocodiles, vervet monkeys, antelope, baboons, giraffes and
hippos. It is in Tsavo that poachers were most successful in
their bloody racket and this saw a dramatic fall in elephant
population. The good guys have in recent years gained the upper
hand and numbers are recovering.
But Kenyan authorities are still extremely wary of the future of
the elephant in Tsavo. The country is very active in seeking a
permanent ban on the international ivory trade. I wish at this
point to declare to all that I am a great fan of the African
elephant. I believe this to be the true king of the jungle and
not that overrated pretender, the lion. You may recall from the
movie "The Man-eaters of Tsavo" how cowardly lions disrupted the
building of the railway in the Tsavo area by feeding on the
workforce. Would true royalty be involved in such a disgraceful
affair?
Kenya is a year round safari destination. The rains come around
April- May and November-December. This does not however, much
affect the travelers' ability to get around. This is except for
the heavily forested Aberdares. In the wet season the roads in
the Aberdares are extremely slippery and the park is at times
actually closed down. Generally the best time to go on safari is
over the drier months when the grass is short and sighting
animals is so much easier. But in areas such as the Mara, the
animals are so plentiful that you are going to see lots of them
regardless of the season. The peak tourist season falls around
January to February and July to August. April to June is the low
season and prices for accommodation in the lodges can be as much
as 40% lower than in the high season.
Accommodation on safari varies from basic camping to luxury
lodges and tented camps. Out there in the bush, you will be
pleasantly surprised that all the trimmings of 5 star
accommodations are available. But if you want to rough it out,
you will find campsites in almost all the game reserves and
national parks. Info on Kenya hotels, lodges & resorts
accommodation options is available online.
It is generally recommended to take an escorted Kenya safari tour
package that includes transport, park fees and accommodation. The
reason for this is that the tour guides are usually well versed about the
animals, where to find them and how to get there and have other
such useful local knowledge. Have a look at some offers of
various durations and budgets.
But if you have a lot of time and need more freedom as you get
around, then hire a vehicle in either Nairobi or Mombasa. For Kenya car
rental there is a choice between self-drive and chauffer driven vehicles.
On safari, wear light cottons and linen. Warmer clothing is needed for
the evenings and for your early morning game drive. Some rainwear is
advisable between March and June and October and December.
You should bring along a decent pair of sunglasses. The
glare you experience in bright tropical light is a new and
uncomfortable experience for most. It is also a good idea to
carry a pair of binoculars. They are very useful for spotting
animals and will earn you the envy of your less knowledgeable
traveling companions.
Copyright ©Africa Point
About the author:
Andrew Muigai is editor of AfricaPoint Insider online
newsletter. It is part of AfricaPoint.com- the Africa travel
website that has helped thousands of travelers discover Africa.
You can view more info on Kenya safari and tours at the
website.
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